What kind of propagating can you do in fall?
Propagating Plants for Fall and Winter: 7 Simple Techniques
As fall settles in, many gardeners may think it's time to hang up their trowels. But this season is actually perfect for one of the most rewarding garden tasks—plant propagation. Whether you’re multiplying perennials, shrubs, or tender annuals, propagation offers a great way to grow new plants and fill your garden without a trip to the nursery. Here are 7 key methods, with some tips to ensure your success.
1. Cuttings: Hardwood & Semi-Hardwood🌿
Cuttings are an easy and popular way to propagate many plants, and fall is the perfect time for hardwood cuttings, while late summer is ideal for semi-hardwood.
Hardwood Cuttings are taken from dormant, mature wood, typically in late fall through winter. They root slowly but are quite resilient. Plants like forsythia, roses, and grapevines thrive from hardwood cuttings.
Steps:
Choose healthy stems from the current season’s growth and cut them into sections 6-12 inches long.
Strip the leaves from the lower half and dip the cut end in rooting hormone (optional).
Insert the cutting into well-draining soil and water lightly. By spring, roots will develop.
~ I had great success with rose cuttings propagated this way.
Semi-Hardwood Cuttings, on the other hand, are taken from partially mature stems, which root more quickly. Plants like azaleas, hydrangeas, and lavender work well with this method.
Steps:
Take 4-6 inch cuttings from semi-mature stems and remove the lower leaves.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone and plant in a mixture of sand and perlite for good drainage.
Cover with a plastic bag to retain humidity, and keep in a shaded, frost-free spot. Roots form in 2-3 months.
Tip: For both hardwood and semi-hardwood cuttings, bottom heat (e.g., from a heat mat) can speed up rooting, especially during winter months.
~ My heat mats were running too warm, so I bought a thermostat specifically designed to maintain the temperature at 69-70°F. I also keep my cuttings under LED lights for several hours a day. To improve success, I maintain high humidity levels using an automatic fogger or mister inside a dedicated greenhouse section that’s enclosed for better control. This setup has significantly enhanced my results.
2. Division🌿
Division is a simple method that rejuvenates tired perennials while creating new plants. Ideal for plants like hostas, daylilies, and irises, division works best in fall or early spring.
Steps:
Dig up the entire clump of the plant and gently shake off excess soil.
Use a sharp knife or spade to divide the root mass into several smaller sections, ensuring each has a healthy set of roots.
Replant each section and water thoroughly to help the roots establish before winter sets in.
Tip: For fibrous-rooted plants like ornamental grasses, a sharp spade or garden fork may be needed to separate the clumps cleanly.
3. Layering🌿
Layering is a reliable method that allows a branch to form roots while still attached to the parent plant. This slow-but-steady technique works well for shrubs and vines like rhododendrons, hydrangeas, and clematis.
Steps:
Select a low-growing branch and strip off the leaves where it will touch the ground.
Gently scrape the underside of the branch and bury it 2-3 inches deep, securing it with a rock or U-shaped pin.
By next spring, the branch should have rooted, and you can sever it from the parent plant to transplant it.
Tip: Mulching over the buried section can help protect it from frost during winter.
4. Suckers & Offshoots🌿
Many plants naturally produce suckers or offshoots, which can be easily separated and planted. This method is commonly used for lilacs, raspberries, and bamboo.
Steps:
Identify healthy suckers around the base of the plant.
Carefully dig around the sucker to expose its roots and cut it away from the parent plant.
Replant the sucker in a new location and water well.
Tip: Make sure each sucker has enough roots to sustain itself before transplanting to avoid stress on the new plant.
5. Root Cuttings🌿
Root cuttings are a fantastic method for propagating herbaceous perennials like Oriental poppies, echinacea, and horseradish. This method is best done in fall after the plant has gone dormant.
Steps:
Dig up the plant and cut 2-4 inch sections of root, making sure to angle the bottom cut so you know which end to plant.
Lay the cuttings horizontally in a tray filled with moist, well-draining soil.
By spring, new shoots will emerge, and the rooted cuttings can be transplanted.
Tip: Keep the soil slightly moist but not too wet to avoid root rot.
6. Seed Collection & Stratification🌿
Many perennials and biennials produce seeds that need a period of cold before they will germinate. Collecting seeds from plants like coneflowers, lavender, and poppies in fall gives you a head start for next year.
Steps:
Harvest mature seed heads and allow them to dry completely.
Store seeds in a cool, dry place until ready for planting. For seeds that require cold stratification, place them in a moist paper towel and refrigerate them for 2-4 months.
Alternatively, sow the seeds outdoors in fall, letting nature provide the necessary cold period for germination.
Tip: Ensure seeds are fully dry before storing them to prevent mold.
7. Bulb Offsets🌿
Plants like daffodils, tulips, and garlic naturally produce offsets that can be divided and replanted.
Steps:
After the foliage has died back, dig up the bulbs and gently separate the smaller offsets.
Replant the offsets at a depth 2-3 times their height and water thoroughly.
Tip: Bulb offsets may take a year or two to bloom, but they will establish strong, healthy plants in the meantime.
Propagating your plants during the fall and winter can set you up for a vibrant, lush garden in the spring. Whether you’re trying hardwood cuttings or planting bulb offsets, these simple methods will help you multiply your garden with ease. Happy propagating!
Leola Young & AI PA